A Weekender in Hobart

I didn’t know much about Hobart, or Tassie really, before heading there over the weekend. All I knew was I wanted to go to the Salamanca Market, having seen it featured on MasterChef some years earlier.

Friends recommended renting a car and driving to some of the wineries around Hobart, but I didn’t fancy that. I quickly became concerned that Hobart might just be too small for the time I planned on being there (four days). Thankfully, my fears were quickly put to rest as what I found in Hobart was exactly what I needed for my short, relaxing yet gourmet break. 

I took my time in Hobart, and only planned one ‘thing’ for each day. I’ve compressed them here into a weekender for those of you who only have the time for a short break to slow the cogs and recharge.

Recommendations for a charming weekend in Hobart

My first tip is to fly in the night before if you can. It might be a pain in the butt to fly after a long day at work but trust me, you'll appreciate it when you can get up on the Saturday morning at a leisurely pace, which is exactly the pace you want to start off your weekend in Hobart.

Saturday Morning – Salamanca Market

The Salamanca Market stretches the length of Salamanca Place and runs from 8.30am until 3.00pm every Saturday. The market features local produce, flowers, crafts and artisan goods, clothes, books, jewels and trinkets. Grab your breakfast here, as there’s locally roasted coffee and an array of fruit, baked goods and sausage sandwiches to choose from. I went with a sausage in a fresh white bun as the scent of barbecue quickly became overpowering. Oh, and coffee. Of course, the coffee!

The chatter of the stallholders and music from talented buskers adds to the charm, while Mount Wellington in the background, Salamanca Place partially lined by old sandstone warehouses, and the white peaks of the stall tents all make for a pleasant market experience.

Although there is an obvious tilt towards tourist and visitor clientele, it doesn’t take away from the genuine enthusiasm of the stallholders, all of whom are passionate about their products and about Tasmania. It really was an awakening, as I had no idea so many fabulous things come out of Tassie! There are cheeses, breads, honey, preserves, fudge, beers, wines and even whisky, all of which are to die for. You won’t go hungry in Tasmania, that’s for sure.

If you’re staying in apartment accommodation, I recommend picking up some goodies to eat later in the day. Trust me, the food is good enough to spend the evening in.

Saturday Afternoon – Mount Wellington

If you have a car, you can travel to Mount Wellington whenever you like – I reckon sunrise or sunset would be particularly spectacular. However, if you’re not driving the Hobart Shuttle Bus offers a service that can be booked in advance and leaves from the Tasmanian Travel and Information Centre in Hobart city at 1.30pm (with an additional service at 10.15am, but not on Saturdays). It's $25 return, or $15 one way if you plan on making your own  way back down.

Mount Wellington is some 1,271 metres above sea level, and on a clear day the view from the summit is breathtaking. I have to say this came as a surprise to me, as I had not expected to be completely blown away by the view. You can see Hobart, the River Derwent, Bruny Island and towards the west of Tasmania.

I was interested to see the change in the foliage as we ascended the mountain. The trees get progressively smaller and more dispersed the higher you go. There are no trees at the top, only low-lying windswept plants and smoothed rock formations. There is also likely to be snow, or remnants thereof, as it gets quite icy up there, so dress appropriately.

Sunday Morning – Jackman & McRoss

There’s very little I love more than having a leisurely coffee and brunch on a Sunday morning. Discovering Jackman & McRoss meant I could continue this tradition while in Hobart.

Jackman & McRoss is a bakery café at Battery Point (57-59 Hampden Road), a short walk from Elizabeth Street Pier and Salamanca Place. The contents of their display cabinets is to die for. To the far left, there are breads, pastries, croissants, danishes, and brioche. To the right (but still left of the counter) is a gorgeous array of pre-made but fresh brunch foods including savoury pies and pastries, sandwiches and sweet tarts. I chose a veg and polenta concoction held together with ricotta and melted brie, yum!

Popular with visitors, Jackman & McRoss has a relaxed yet classy vibe. The food and baked goods are top notch, and the likelihood of you leaving with a takeaway bag is high. I left with brioche, a chocolate croissant and an eclair for later (not all for me).

Sunday Afternoon – MONA

The Museum of Old and New Art (MONA) is, well, something. The museum opened in its current state in 2011 and is the brainchild of professional gambler and millionaire David Walsh. MONA holds a selection from his private collection.

Entering MONA you descend a spiral staircase three levels into darkness, and arguably, madness. There' no natural light, and you’re surrounded by concrete and cliff-face. The lower level space freaked me out a little, as it’s very dark in parts and quite claustrophobic. However, it progressively gets lighter and more spacious. There are no windows on the museum levels, only at the top, where the entry, shop and café are situated.

The exhibits range from the strange to the ridiculous. Juxtaposed with ultra-modern art are ancient relics. It truly is an odd experience. Some of the works will offend, others will challenge and some will have you wondering what exactly, the heck, art is. And that, I am told, is the point.

It’s all very random. Some exhibits worked for me, while others I could take or leave. One, in particular, I had no interest in. Just before 2pm a queue appeared outside of a room separate from the main hall. Those in the line were waiting to witness the glory that is Wim Delvoye’s Cloaca Professional – a machine that poops. Yep, it poops. As someone who has issues with bodily fluids generally, I freely admit this exhibit was not for me.

The current exhibition is The Red Queen (until 21 April 2014), which I’m told has to do with a scene in Through the Looking-Glass, the Red Queen's power and futility, and asks the question of what is art? What is it's point? What does it mean? Does it, in fact, mean anything at all? Or does it mean everything? I was a little disappointed as I had anticipated some sort of Lewis Carroll link between the exhibition’s works. I could not even tell you which are part of the exhibition and which are part of the permanent collection. That said, I do think the museum as a whole achieves the purpose of questioning our motivations and perceptions of art.

Apparently we missed the wall of vaginas due to The Red Queen. Shame.

The museum is located in Berriedale, towards the north of Hobart along the River Derwent, and is accessible by MONA ferry (MR-I) or bus (MONA ROMA) from the Brook Street ferry terminal near Elizabeth Street Pier. Bikes can also be rented, and the MONA website advertises helicopter or seaplane options too.

The MONA site also features a winery, brewery, accommodation, wine bar, restaurant, function areas, a cinema and outdoor stage area. The museum is closed on Tuesdays and on Christmas Day, though during January it is open seven days. Entry to MONA is $20 for non-Tasmanians and free for locals. The transfer via ferry or mini-bus is $20 return.

Have you been to Hobart? What did you think of it? Next week, I'll share some of my newly acquired Tassie produce recommendations.

-Stevie O'C